I frame my own pictures. I cut the mitre with a mitre box and a saw complete tool which gives a near perfect mitre. I glue them together in a clamp by glueing and pressing them together and tightening the clamps - this gives a good adhesion. _p_I also staple them from the back. So far fine, but I run into problems with pinning the corners. The nails either bend and come out the top of the adjacent piece of moulding or push it away and open up the joint again. I use Evostik Extra-fast wood adhesive. The nails I use are panel pints. The clamp is a MARPLES originally used for cutting mitres which would make it very difficult drilling pilot holes. I have tries nailing before and after the glue has set - no help._/p_ _p_It would appear that either the wood is too hard for the nails which are too weak and bend, the glue should be stronger, or I need a system for drilling pilot holes, which under the present arrangement would be difficult with a power drill._/p_ _p_A small acrylic painting which carries no weight I don't bother nailing - just staple but they are needed with watercolours and larger pictures._/p_

Pam Powell replies: "From what you say, I suspect, as you do, that the wood may be too hard for manual nailing. When selecting picture mouldings, it is worth bearing in mind that Ramin Oak and Ash are very hard woods, whilst Obeche and Pine are soft and therefore easier to cut and nail.

"The pins should not be too long as this can result in bending. The purpose of nailing is to secure the joint while the glue is drying and help to provide a more secure joint over a period of time. The glue you are using should present no problems, but always nail while the glue is wet and the joint is still in the clamp. Don't nail after the glue has set as this can break the bond.

A good clamp shouldn't allow the joint to push open and perhaps a review of this piece of your equipment may be helpful.